Chef’s blog
Experience at Hand & Flowers
Fri, Jun 22nd 2012
Hand and flowers experience
By Chris Harrison, Chef at The Star @ Sancton
The Hand
and Flowers located in Marlow, approximately thirty minutes out of London, is
the only two Michelin star pub in the world. A well deserved tittle I found out
after my time there.
Tom
Kerridge the chef proprietor, set up the pub seven years ago. Costing around
thirty thousand to do so. Surprisingly to many the H&F is still owned by
Greene King. Tom explained to me this made it affordable for him to start his
own business. I guess they have no problems with what he has done with it!
The
kitchen is now driven by a brigade of twelve to fifteen chefs, around nine at
any one time. A team that has grown and developed over the years. I believe
there was only four chefs when they were awarded their first star. An
experienced and knowledgable front of house team adds to the magnificence of
the place.
Tom
Kerridge who you may know from great British menu, having won the main course
in 2010 and 2011, has great passion for food.
The ideas
and flavour combinations are exceptional. The menu reads simply but the food
you get is a complex plate of balanced flavours and textures. The crispy pigs
head with rhubarb being one of my highlights. A fantastic dish made using the
head of a pig which is becoming more and more fashionable as people try to
minimise wastage and use as much of an animal as they can. Another must have on
a visit is the duck fat chips. Triple cooked hand cut chips finished in duck
fat, they are phenomenal. I believe I was told they go through about six sacks
of potatoes a day! But when they do around 140 covers a day you can imagine
that is the case!
The
philosophy is using good local ingredients combined with excellent technique
and skill in the cooking. The chefs are worked hard but the reward of being the
best pub in the world must be a great feeling.
At the
H&F they do lead the way as to what a pub can be like. Ideas are fresh and
new on a regular basis. One idea that I really liked was an accompaniment to
the vanilla creme brûlée, a small measure of cask conditioned lager. I thought as
a pub this was great, many would expect fine wines as its titled two Michelin
star. This is available too but they are true to being a pub. When a lager is
conditioned in whiskey oak barrels and flavour of vanilla and honey why not
enjoy with your desert? Also they offer a full range of beers, four hand pulled
ales, one of which is a H&F ale. Brewed especially for them.
Over the
years dishes have staked their place on the menu. The canapé of whitebait with Marie rose sauce has been there for
about four years. They work to make the perfect food and once achieved the dish
accompaniments change seasonally but the idea behind the dish remains. This
does mean the menu doesn't change regularly but there is so many good dishes to
choose from it doesn't have to. I could go every week and not get bored!
The
atmosphere when dining is relaxed, but you do know your not just in any pub.
There's a certain feel of class. In comparison to other two Michelin star
restaurants around the world the H&F is 'cheap.' it's certainly more
expensive than probably every pub in the world but then it's classed as the
best. This does give them the opportunity to use some of the finer ingredients
and equipment that is out of most pubs budgets. Summer truffles at £230 a kg and some of the greatest scallops I've seen.
Equipment is also some of the best, the kitchen boasts a smart central cooking
range, there is plenty of water baths, a Rational oven and a couple of Paco
jets. Which they use to make there ice creams and parfaits. They have another
two separate prep kitchens and store rooms. All is needed as they are
constantly busy and striving for the best.
If you
don't go and work there you must go and eat there. It was a truly great
experience.
In my
week I learnt so much. New innovative ideas and attitudes towards food. I hope
to offer added knowledge to Ben, Lindsey and all the team at the Star at
Sancton.
Chris